Archive for January, 2010
Is it possible to use it in your house?
How do you trace and cut the picture exactly?
Do you control it or does the machine do it by itself?
So many questions…
We have laser machines to engrave photos into crystals. It is not exactly cutting, but the principle is the same.
To have precise cutting or engraving, you need computer control. Without computer control, cutting is possible, but it will not be pretty. Engraving is impossible without computer control, since you need to arrange millions of dots together to form the photo.
For laser cutting, you essentially heat the metal (or whatever you are cutting) to vaporize it. For laser crystal engraving that we do, the laser beam is focused inside a crystal, where its intensity is strong enough to cause a structure change. The surface is not changed because the laser is not focused there.
I really want to be able to laser cut acrylic for jewelery, what do I need to do this? How hard is it? Can you make much of a profit if you send it to a company to get cut?
Thank you.
I would check out Ponoko. http://www.ponoko.com/ It’s really pretty easy. They can laser-cut a design from an EPS file or even from a scanned in drawing. Lots of people sell their stuff through Ponoko too and are definitely making a profit.
I work at an engraving company. We have a Laser machine that can cut straight through 2 inch hardwood in two passes. I have been planning a build for a custom subwoofer box and just now thought of how easy it would be to draw the designs in C.A.D. and use the laser to precisely cut the pieces. How will the MDF handle the heat? Would I have to use low power and make multiple cuts? I do however foresee a problem cutting angles on the edge *The 3/4" side*. I can always at least use it to cut the circle perfectly!
Hi kyleryantoth,
We have a 60W laser and have cut a number of templates from MDF. The biggest problem in laser cutting MDF, and plywood for that matter, is the glue used to bond the material, not the wood itself. When laser cutting any of these materials I highly recommend using wood with an all natural bonding agent instead of the heavy chemical glues found in the MDF and plys you get at most hardware stores. Check with your local lumber yards for these better materials. When laser cutting thick MDF do not try to cut it in 2 passes like you would with 2" hardwoods since, again, it is not the wood that is the issue but the glue. I would suggest 5-7 passes at slightly faster speeds. The glue, like cutting thick acrylic, will re-bond if cut too hot too slowly. You will also get too much flare-up if not done properly.
Specifics:
How will the MDF handle the heat? Too much heat at a very slow speed will torch the wood. Plan on many passes at 100% power but faster speeds (start about 20%-25% speed).
Would I have to use low power and make multiple cuts? No and Yes. On 3/4" MDF aim for about 1/8" deep per pass (roughly 6 cuts) at full power.
I do however foresee a problem cutting angles on the edge *The 3/4" side. - instead of angle joints try dovetail or box joints. They will look better and make the box more sturdy if you plan on 10"+ sub woofers.
Always test your settings on scrap first.
Feel free to email me with any questions.
Mike Perrino
M&G LaserWorks
www.mglaserworks.com